2P29L – Preamp and driver for 4P1L PSE Amp

A very interesting Russian directly-heated pentode related to 4P1L is the 2P29L. It has a similar mu (μ=9), much higher anode resistance 2.8-3KΩ and transconductance of 3mA/V when triode-strapped. The filament requirements are much lower at 120mA. I picked one valve from my collection to submit it to the mercy of the curve tracer:

2P29L test point (pentode)
2P29L test point (pentode)

The triode curves are really nice:

2P29L triode curves and model
2P29L triode curves and model

This valve is as linear as the 4P1L (hooray). As a preamp it can be easily implemented like the 4P1L Gen2 preamp using a gyrator PCB which simplifies the building process:

2P29L preamp
2P29L preamp

Running it at 15mA and slightly above the recommended 160V achieve its lowest distortion.

We could also use this valve as a driver for a 4P1L preamp, which comes very handy for filament bias:

2P29L-4P1L PSE Amp

Author: Ale Moglia

"A mistake is always forgivable, rarely excusable and always unacceptable. " (Robert Fripp)

10 thoughts on “2P29L – Preamp and driver for 4P1L PSE Amp”

  1. Dear MOGLIAA,

    I guess someone has to ask the question …

    Interested in your sonic assessment of the 2P29L compared to the 4P1L.

    This “new” tube is certainly affordable!

    Do you leave the metal jacket on? I assume there is a glass envelope beneath this.

    Is that really a knob on top to easy extraction? That is a great idea if it is.

    Take care,

  2. Rick,

    Under the aluminium case there is indeed a beautiful glass bulb, like the one of 4П1Л but smaller. It is definitely worth the effort of removing the ugly case. I saved only the bottom (socket) part and glued it to the glass body.

    Happy DIY-ing,
    M.

      1. I saved the bottom part for convenience only, so I know where the key is when I insert the tube in the socket. I cut the envelope down to the flat bottom part, leaving only the “disk” and the key.

        M.

    1. Can I ask a couple of questions about removing the aluminium can please:

      1. I’m thinking that using a Dremel with a cutting-disc tool will do the job, making the cut rght at the top of the tube where the round top of the glass bulb will be distanced from the can?
      2. What glue was used to re-attach the bottom of the can to the bulb to keep the insertion key?
      1. Hi Ray, you can remove the metal can without any issues. You can then cut the base with a Dremel. Glue should be whatever you have at hand that will glue metal and glass. You will find it very easy to do.

  3. Hello Moglia
    I’m excited to learn that 2P29L can produce fansastic sound as preamps. It’s Chinese equivalent is 2P29S, which is even cheaper than the Russian one… Highly accessible in mainland China.
    Thanks!

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