I think a gain of about 130-140 should be ok. Perhaps if I get around in adding the 6SF5 stage then it may be good enough.
So this got me thinking. Of course I have on my list 2 driver tests:
- 4P1L pentode – yes, pentode!
- 46/47 DHT with a SUT. I could do a 1:4 gain step up and drive it with the 01a. Need to double check the capacitive load if it’s too much or not for the 01a. The resulting gain will be around 150.
I’d like to move back to 2 stages though. So will try the above anyway, that’s the purpose of this latest modular amplifier build.
I immediately turned into the folded cascode (aka “shunt cascode”) topology which Rod Coleman introduced me to years ago. If you haven’t read about it, please read this post, this and this one.
Challenge is for me that if I’d want to add a 6e5p in here, will mean about 40mA or more of additional current, which would require a rework of the PS. This means more work.
I looked at the D3a or even the E810F instead. Challenge is that this topology is able to deliver higher gain than μ (which is what I need), however this is only possible at low distortion levels when the valve is operated at high current / gm. This means you need to operate the valve preferably at lower anode voltages and higher currents. This is counterproductive when you want many volts to swing. Therefore some of the frame-grid pentodes with good dissipation can work well. That is why the 6e5p is a good candidate.
I recently built a PCB with folded cascode and other small circuits for pentode drivers which I’m intending to use in phono stage experiments. The PCB is the same size as my HV LED voltage reference so can be stacked on top as per below:
Swinging 200Vpp at very low distortion is not easy. The D3a was a bit dissapointing on my tests so I moved onto the E810F. It has a higher gm so works better here. I tried the first setup like this:
And the results aren’t as great as expected. Gain is great however, the 0.4% THD can be easily improved by many simple triode-connected contenders at 100Vpp.
If you want to do better, we need to operate the E810F at higher current, which turns out lower voltage to keep within the safe power dissipation levels. The below is a good compromise:
49dB driver stage! This can do 0.2% at 150Vpp but that’s about its maximum swing.
Gain turns out to be too much. If you want to lower R1, you need more current. Again means you need to watch for the ZTX558 dissipation limits or change the transistor. All of these means more current in the CCS which defeat my objective. Mind you that the attached is very similar to my phono stage and performs amazingly at low level signals. I’m currently working on a new phono stage and likely reuse this topology.
Nice to have been diverted my attention on this. You learn a lot from experimentation after simulating in Spice. No doubt. I will go back to my original plans now.
And yes, will make the time to do a proper writeup of the 300B amp. I need to get around to measure it in more detail. Even I still haven’t put in the EML300B valves! Still running with the chinese ones for testing.
Hi Ale,
200V HT is not enough if you want more than 150Vpp.
Each tube requires at least 30V as minimum anode voltage and active load also requires 20-30V headroom, so swing range narrows to 150V.
I use my D3a at about 180V, 10mA, -2V operating point with CCS load, but at 350V B+!
Hi Bela
My D3a is running from 370V HT. They are hot at 200V anode and perform brilliantly.
The above experiment was a red herring. With a folded cascode circuit, the triode operates in a vertical loadline – not horizontal. You need to bias the triode at maximum voltage swing and the common base amplifier (the BJT) will convert current into voltage across the collector resistor. The latter needs to be at midpoint, about 100V. Perhaps you can stretch it out a bit more to give more headroom. That leaves the HT to be at least 20 or 25V to give the CCS headroom for good operation. The HT goes no more than 250 or 270V at the most. Downside is that you need much more current as you are operating the valve in very hot to maximise gm.
A pointless exercise to attempt fitting a different design with the current limitations I had at hand on the current power supply design and capabilities without modifying things big time.
Yet, I’m more than happy with the D3a I have to say.
4P1L driving the 300B. Still thinking about this? With the LL7903 at 1:8 input?
Hi Valentin
At the moment I’m using a 47 with a 1:8 SUT, so similar topology but different valve. 4P1L is superb for this job in this configuration so I’d not doubt it to use it again in the future.
Cheers, Ale
Great to hear, I am building one right now. But using a IT LL1671 so I can try different combos of Input ratios 1:4 on input and 1:2 for the IT (altT) or vise versa 1:8 in and 1:1 IT. You did a test with those tubes a while back and it inspired me.