I’ve been using these boards for many years now. Haven’t offered them as is required for anyone to be experienced well enough in SMD soldering to get these done effectively. I have a reflow oven so work at scale is easier this way. I’ve been doing a lot of SMD board design and building over the past few years though.
On a busy time regardless, I found the space to build these four commissioned boards for D3a drivers like the ones I used on my 300B amplifier. There seems to be a lot of interest and build work done around this design, so happy to see this happening.
The use of CCS in HT power supplies is well known, however generally misunderstood why it can be a good addition to some circuits. There is an excellent article from Gary Pimm which has been lost and luckily I found it on my archive. Here it is in case you haven’t read it. Worth it as a refresher or for anyone who is new to the subject:
Here is a very nice build from Dan Kercher on his contraption of the 300B amplifier with auto bias. The driver is an EF86 with SiC diode biasing, the topology is a hybrid mu-follower and a source follower drives the output stage. Filaments are DC with Rod Coleman’s board:
Dan Kercher’s EF86 – 300B XLS SE Amplifier build
More details can be found below:
Hi Ale,
I wanted to thank you for all of your PCBs. I just finished a project that uses your Gyrators, SiC bias boards, and SiC Source Followers. I'm so happy with the results. Details posted on Audio Asylum.
https://www.audioasylum.com/forums/tubediy/messages/27/276814.html
Cheers,
Dan
After a long time, decided to update the PCB of the LL1943 SUT to provide extra flexibility on the grounding connection. This is in essence to ensure no ground loops and noise when either using balanced or un-balanced cabling from the cartridge into the PCB:
LL1943: note the additional jumpers added
The additional jumpers are in line with the recommendations from the Datasheet. Here is the diagram:
For a fixed connection (like in most of the cases once preamp has been tuned/optimised) you can replace the jumpers by solid core wire jumpers soldered to the pad for best connection and performance.
This PCB is also for the LL1933. Basically is the same SUT but with 1+1:8+8 instead of 1+1:16+16 windings.
I made a small batch (I won’t need more than 2 or 4! myself) so the remaining will go on first-come-first-serve basis.
I’ve been enjoying and carefully listening my new 300B amplifier. I have to say that I love every bit of its sound, treble detail and strong bass. The amplifier is fast and can drive very well my speakers. I only discovered that due to my low level DAC, the gain of the D3a in triode is yet not enough to get it to maximum power. So, I hooked in my beloved 01a preamp. The overall gain is too much of course so had to place the volume control at the output of the 01a stage.
I think a gain of about 130-140 should be ok. Perhaps if I get around in adding the 6SF5 stage then it may be good enough.
So this got me thinking. Of course I have on my list 2 driver tests:
Surely you’re as tired as I’m with COVID-19. One of the best things I can do to distract my mind is to keep myself away from social media. Every stone you turn, there is COVID or a statement about it. I won’t moan as I have a job for now and a healthy family. Some members of my family were infected but nothing major. I can only say is that the world has change. And so my day to day life looking after the young family whilst working is a real challenge. Starting my fifth week of lockdown, I have to distract somehow my mind at times, otherwise will go mad.
It’s been a while since I experimented with preamps again. I settled as a permanent setup with my 01a/ER801a which I love. However, I wanted to continue with my experiments so I built a new Mule, let’s call it “Mule 2” for now. It’s based out of multiple PCBs which simplifies the construction process and reduces build time:
In the process of rebuilding my old 300B amplifier, I decided to make a new filament power supply. It all came up around the components I had at hand, so it could’ve been improved but that meant extra cost:
I have a pair of custom-made JMS transformers with multi-taps secondaries. This helps me tweaking the right output voltage. Anyhow, any 15V transformer would do. Perhaps you want 14V to ensure you don’t dissipate too much on the filament regulators (e.g. Rod Coleman regulators)
I used my flexible LT supply PCB which allowed me to build this in less than 1 hour. I also used some existing chokes made in the UK by “Spirit” which are ok for this purpose. The Lundahls are in use, so can’t reuse them:
300B filament board ready
I used some SOT-128-2 schottky rectifiers but any other should work as well. Resistors are wirewound and the CMR choke is what I had in stock as well. A simple 15mH/3A should do fine.
The output measured well at 9V with a 6R load which dragged 1.5A. A bit more than the 300B but should be a good indication of performance. Also ripple level is good at 2.5mVrms. The rest will be cleaned up by the regulator itself 🙂
