All about electronic valves and hi-fi
Barry French has recently build his version of the 01a Preamp Gen2. Here are a couple of pictures:
And Barry’s impressions:
“The 01a Amplifier is a stunner, personally I feel it leaves the 26 out in the cold, better top & bottom by a Country Mile, this was built using the Russian FT-3 Caps on the Output, Russian PIO Caps on the Boards with Jupiter 0.1 μf Wax/Oil Caps from B+ to Ground, the Power Supplies for both Filaments & B+ are from my original 26.”
I received many requests throughout this year of folks building the 01a preamp (Gen2) asking for advice on the HT supply design. Well, I have my own incarnation which serves multiple purposes as is a shared supply, therefore isn’t useful to anyone.
My friend Andy Evans came up with a supply using available components. This is exactly what you are looking for the HT supply. I made some tweaks to Andy’s design, so all credit should go to him.
The HT supply design is very simple. It’s mainly a choke-input valve rectifier supply. It has an additional LC smoothing stage. Here is the high-level circuit, see some notes
The transformer is a 250-0-250V / 50VA with an output current of 60mA. It has two windings for 6.3V AC heaters, but you only need one. Here is a great choice from a recommended seller.
The valve rectifier is a double-diode damper. Of course you can use some other options, but I like the sound of them. Here are some you might want to consider in your build:
For the indirectly heated diodes, it will be better to connect one end of the filaments to the cathode.
The chokes are commonly available. These are from Hammond (155J) and have 15H @ 30mA. The downside is the high resistance, over 1kΩ. This isn’t an issue here as the current consumption is low so the voltage drop is minimal. With a choke input supply you need a minimum current to operate. In this case is about 15-16mA so a bleeder resistor is needed (29kΩ 5W wire wound) .
C1 serves to equalise the output voltage. It pushes the supply to operate a bit more like cap-input (hybrid) by increasing the output voltage. I use it to tune the output voltage to 200V.
C2 and C3 are classic motor run capacitors. I personally use ASC Oil ones 450VAC rated. You can choose what you can get hold. You can use any good quality film capacitors. I like the WIMA DC-LINK ones, they are great.
The output ripple is about 7mV. This isn’t a problem as the gyrator load has a very high supply rejection (PSRR) so no need to go crazy on this. If you
The design is so simple that anyone should be able to build this easily.
Hope it works for you.
Merry Christmas!
A fantastic build of the 01a preamp using the gyrator PCB from Cheah:
I have just completed my 01a preamp with STP3NK60ZFP output follower. The preamp sounded great !!
A great looking preamp using Rod Coleman’s regulators, output follower and V-Cap capacitors. The jFET is BF862.
Well done Cheah!
First listening test with these beauties, it sounds really nice!
And here is the look inside for the curious ones who always ask me to provide more details about the construction. Here is a good ground wiring example. The preamp is dead quiet:
Using the Gyrator PCB board:
Led Zeppelin wrote a fantastic song on their first album: how many more times. You may not be a rock fan, but hey: what a great song. How many more times do I want to get back to this “slew rate” theme? I don’t know, as much as I have to. Plenty of comments out there of bad designs with wimpy drivers attempting to take the 300B/2A3 or even 45 valves to full tilt with disappointing results. Either way, they always blame the valves.
I came back to revisit the driving of capacitive loads effectively as I’m working on a new 4P1L PSE amplifier. Slowly, but getting there. Previously I looked at adding a buffer to the 01a preamp as a result of slew rate limitations found in Tony’s implementation of this preamp.
I went to see my friend Tony today and helped him to fix his 01a preamp implementation. Time ago Tony used a prototype version of my gyrator PCB to build the Gen2 preamp with the addition of an output follower to address the slew rate limitations he had on his system due to the larger capacitive load.
Luckily we found the fault easily and it was a bad solder in one of the smoothing HT chokes. Once fault was rectified, we proceeded to take some measurements of this preamp.
On my previous post, I covered my initial build work on the gyrator test mule using the gyrator PCB. I did all the lovely soldering work (which I do enjoy not like milling or drilling) and proceeded to do several tests.
Some interesting observations based on my abuse of the gyrator which yielded on several MOSFETs and JFET damaged as a result:
IntroductionMore than 5 years ago, I built a fantastic single-ended amp with the unique 45. The 45 has a distinguished tone and personality despite its mere 2W of output power. If you have high efficiency speakers, then it’s a great amplifier to build. With 2W you can enjoy music in a mid-sized room. You don’t need more, this amplifier performs at its best at low output levels and in particular when playing jazz or classical music.
There are plenty of design circuits out there. I settled for a simple triode driver using a gyrator load. The choice was down to the 6J5 and 7193 (a military version of the 2C22). Both triodes are medium mu and sound really nice. Depending your needs, you may opt for a different driver (even pentode). However, they need to be able to drive the large voltage swing required by the 45. I’d go for a 6J52P, 6e5P, 6e6P, D3a or C3g these days. It all depends on your needs and available valves. The driver is biased at 7mA to provide enough grid current to avoid slew rate issues. An improved version would be to add a MOSFET follower to provide better performance under grid current. An example of a follower implementation can be found here.
The 45 is biased hot at 34mA/300V. The anode can handle 10W and this operating point provided best sound in my view. The OT is crucial, so invest as much money as you can afford. Rod Coleman regulators are needed to implement this amp without hum and the unwanted inter-modulation effects.
I carried out several tests on the driver to find the sweet spot for minimum distortion and full swing. The driver is a hybrid mu-follower composed by the gyrator and the 6J5/7193 triode. The valve is biased by a set of 5 red LEDs to about 8V. I think I had a combination of a white LED and LED to provide 8V in my implementation. The dynamic resistance is minimum and won’t impact the performance of the stage.
I used the Sylvania metal-base 6J5 but then settled for the 7193 valves. They sounded better and I was quite pleased with the overall performance of the amplifier.
The amplifier design is very simple. With the gyrator PCB you can simplify the driver build and also use different valves to experiment with them. I originally didn’t have a PCB so I built my gyrator in a prototype board.
I’d highly recommend you building this amplifier. If you want to experience the single-ended sound, then this is one of the amps to build. Of course you can go for higher power levels with a 2A3 or 300B, however, the sound of the 45 is unique. Worth trying
A very interesting Russian directly-heated pentode related to 4P1L is the 2P29L. It has a similar mu (μ=9), much higher anode resistance 2.8-3KΩ and transconductance of 3mA/V when triode-strapped. The filament requirements are much lower at 120mA. I picked one valve from my collection to submit it to the mercy of the curve tracer:
The triode curves are really nice:
This valve is as linear as the 4P1L (hooray). As a preamp it can be easily implemented like the 4P1L Gen2 preamp using a gyrator PCB which simplifies the building process:
Running it at 15mA and slightly above the recommended 160V achieve its lowest distortion.
We could also use this valve as a driver for a 4P1L preamp, which comes very handy for filament bias:
